Food (typical dishes - meat - cheese) ~~ Flowers
The Genoese "pandolce" from Genova
Even if some people insist on calling it "panettone", it doesn’t have much in
common with the Christmas cake made in Milano. It gets its name from the shape
of the bread, slightly rounded on top, but there’s also a version which is
flatter, a more recent invention, not as risen and circular in shape which,
sweetened by the addition of raisins, pine nuts and pieces of candied fruit,
gives a finished product that is enviably appetizing.
"Panettone" is strictly a Christmas cake, whereas "pandolce" is not typical of
any season or festivity, and can be found all year round in the well-stocked
shops of Genova and Liguria.
"Amaretti" from Liguria
Nearly all the pastry cooks in inland Liguria are experts and competitors in the
production of "amaretti". These are small biscuits made from marzipan, whose
name recalls the slightly bitter ("amaro") taste of almonds. Each production has
an individual touch and the flavour may be more or less accentuated but always
sweetened and mixed with egg-white and sugar. The "amaretti" made in Sassello,
in the Savona hinterland, are famous; in ancient times this was a thoroughfare
for pilgrims and merchants in the Padana valley (today it is part of the Beigua
regional natural Park).
"Amaretti" biscuits are only the tip of the iceberg of small cake production in
Liguria, together with "canestrello", a tasty appetizing cake made with butter.
Should you happen to visit Acquasanta di Voltri, you mustn’t leave empty handed.
Candied fruit
Who would have thought that the process of candying agricultural products was
born in Liguria? Well, it was; even if by now it has become widespread
throughout all the national cake-making panorama and beyond. The only absolutely
typical product are candied "bigarades", produced in limited quantities by some
artisan companies in the Savona area, a real culinary and gastronomic relic.
"Spongata" from Sarzana
A fairly typical and exclusive cake, the "spongata" is produced in the small
area of the Magra Valley. It’s in the shape of a round loaf covered with cream
coloured icing, a wrapping for a kaleidoscope of ingredients, in particular jam
and candied fruits, which give the mixture a solid texture and a "polyhedric"
flavour.
Similar cakes can be found in various places in the Padana Valley (Pavia,
Brescello, Parma) and at Pontremoli, so the recent definition "Via Francigena
cake" would seem spot on.
"Baci" from Alassio and Albenga
These tiny biscuits are minute balls of hazelnut marzipan and dark chocolate cut
in half and filled with a layer of dark chocolate. Those from Albenga, instead
of chocolate have a filling flavored with the local Pigato and Vermentino wines.
Honey
The great variety of neighboring environments in the Liguria area, from the
Maritime Alps to the sea and the Apennines, contains many different varieties of
flowers and plants, from Mediterranean shrubs to meadows full of rhododendrons.
The food product which best synthesises this variety and symbolically brings
together all these perfumes is honey. The Liguria beekeepers can offer a range
of flavors which are difficult to find elsewhere, a concentrate of nature to
take home like a collection of perfumes. Biological production has recently
started to become popular in this sector, too.
Basil
This aromatic herb chosen as the gastronomic symbol of the Region and unique,
special ingredient of cuisine in Liguria takes on an unmistakable intense, full
aroma in Liguria. Grown on the terraces which overlook the sea, it is an
inimitable product, which should be appreciated in its homeland and which the
whole world envies this difficult ground.
It should be no surprise if in Liguria the basil sellers offer the tiny plants
in little bunches still with their roots attached. There is a very definite
reason for this: the true aroma is obtained from plants with one or two layers
of leaves, still tender and light in color, but which effectively give off all
their aroma when cleverly used by the cook.
The regional production takes place in glasshouses in the winter and in the open
fields in the spring-summer period, but the taste doesn’t change. It’s the
coastal sunlight and the dry, arid earth that determine its particular
characteristics. The most important areas of production are Prà, Voltri and
Coronata (in the borough of Genova) and then Diano Marina, Andora, Albenga (in
the west) and the Magra Valley. With the support of the Regional Authorities, a
promotional committee is now being set up to obtain DOP certification for the
basil from Liguria, very different from that on the “continent” or from abroad.
Pesto
The most typical and famous of the regional sauces is without doubt pesto, of
which basil is the main ingredient. The name “pesto” means the method used to
obtain it that is the grinding with pestle and mortar in marble, an operation
essential for releasing the entire aroma. The secrets are two: the use of young
leaves from plants that are not more than 2 months old – and the growers in
Liguria are experts and have refined growing techniques which have closely
guarded secret operations – and the use of a pestle and mortar to grind the
leaves and garlic together instead of the faster and more practical food
processor. The difference is obvious to the palate.
To this mixture of basil and garlic you must add only extra virgin oil from
Liguria, pine nuts, salt and cheese (preferably grana or pecorino). Other
ingredients are only extras and attempts to imitate the original which have
nothing to do with regional tradition. At this point the only extra needed is
for it to be tasted by gourmets. It must be tried to be believed.
Sauces from Liguria
In the land between the sea and the mountains pasta used to be served with
whatever local tradition and production could offer. In this way two typical
regional dressings have been preserved, widespread among all the restaurant
owners who are aware of the link with tradition. Nut sauce, a harmonious
combination of flavors, is the typical dressing for pansotti and is obtained by
grinding nuts, adding oil, salt and a drop of top of the milk. Just as
particular, but more difficult to find, is pine nut sauce, a regal dressing for
corsetti and testaroli. This is prepared by grinding the pine nuts and adding
soft pieces of bread dipped in milk and is then finished off with cream, salt
and marjoram. Not to be missed.
Cheese focaccia from Recco
Two paper thin layers of pastry which can hardly hold in their cheese filling
which is just as special; the "prescinseua", boiling hot and melted; this simple
recipe cannot describe the exclusive flavor of this dish, which can be tasted
where it is sold in the Paradiso Gulf, right next to the Portofino Promontory,
and in Genova.
Tempting and tasty, it’s a real hunger stopper at any time of the day and it
seems to derive from war time. During the period of the Saracen invasions the
local population, driven into the mountains, rolled out the pastry thinly to
feed everyone and filled it with whatever was available, that is, with cheese
from the animals they kept.
Nowadays it is a well-known dish appreciated all over the world and it must
defend its name against imitations, both good and bad.
Recco is comfortably situated in the splendid Paradiso Gulf, two minutes from
Camogli and the legendary San Fruttuoso Bay.
Focaccia
Passing through Genova, who hasn’t stopped in one baker’s or another to taste a
classic strip of focaccia, soft or crunchy, plain or flavored with onions,
rosemary or olives? It’s one of the gastronomic calling cards of the visitor to
Liguria. Widespread throughout the whole of Liguria, but the best is said to be
from the bakers in Voltri, the western most outpost of Genova.
Farinata
This is the name of a very thin, cooked layer of chickpea flour, oil and water,
traditionally baked in a wood fired oven, in the artisan "testo" which is a wide
copper roasting dish. The secret is definitely in the goodness of the oil, even
better if it is extra virgin oil from Liguria. There is no doubt that this dish
has Saracen origins as similar recipes can be found all over the Mediterranean
and Middle East.
Until not long ago it was eaten in the afternoon, at a table in the tavern,
lightly sprinkled with pepper and accompanied by a glass of good wine. This
would be a good tradition to teach youngsters … It is also good to eat with the
slightly acidic, fresh wines from Liguria, olives in brine and local cheeses.
The same mixture, but made with wheat flour gives the white "farinata", a
tradition exclusive to the city of Savona, where "Fette" can also be found, an
Arab specialty made of slices of chickpea polenta, fried and then stuffed with a
filling. This can be found, and is much liked, in a flavored version (with
artichokes, onions, sausages or with herbs such as rosemary and oregano).
Pasta from Liguria
The visitor to Liguria cannot miss out on tasting the combination of the famous
basil pesto together with the typical pasta shapes used up and down the entire
coast. Trofie are, without doubt, the pasta best suited to pesto as a first
course, but they aren’t averse to mushroom or meat sauces. Trenette are almost
obligatory with a pesto dressing, while ravioli and pansotti, the real pride of
regional gastronomy, are pastas made in the shape of pockets filled with a
meatless stuffing (usually spinach, silver beet, herbs and ricotta cheese)
served with a nut, mushroom or cheese sauce. In the Genova area we mustn’t
forget corsetti from the Fontanabuona Valley, a medallion shaped pasta which is
sometimes imprinted with an image of the restaurant owner, originally with the
image of noble families. Corsetti are also produced in Valpolcevera, but here
they are smaller and have given rise to orecchiette, farfalle and the so-called
pasta trascinata.
Another chapter must be dedicated to testarolo, which goes back as far as
pre-Roman times, a typical pasta from the Lunigiana region, emigrated due to its
proximity into western Liguria and whose name comes from the small dish or "testo"
in boiling hot terracotta in which they are cooked. In Liguria it is also
possible to find a pasta called avvantaggiata: this is either a plate of whole
meal pasta or of pasta with the addition of vegetables, potatoes, pumpkin or
runner beans, a real meal on a plate in the perfect "Mediterranean diet" style.
Cima
Another pillar of regional cuisine is the so-called stuffed cima. By definition
it is a thin slice of veal, taken from the animal’s stomach, sewn up on two
sides to form a pocket and then stuffed with herbs in season, carrots, marjoram,
eggs, cheese and offal. In the west there is a version with a totally meat free
stuffing.
This pocket is then boiled and drained, cooled and pressed under a weight to
squeeze out the excess water. It is served cold in thin slices and can even be
bread-crumbed. Now that we have given you the whole recipe, all you need to do
is to try it out!
"Tomaxelle"
This is pronounced "tomaselle" (tomasellay) and only a few of the restaurants of
the inland area of Genova are able to offer this rare and delicious dish. They
are tender meat rolls, stuffed with meat, cheese, eggs, bread and the
indispensable regional herbs. They are served in a tomato or meat sauce and are
a memorable dish.
"Preboggion"
This is pronounced "Prebuggiùn" (priboujoun) and in the area of Chiavari and in
the Fontanabuona Valley it is a sign of sophisticated cuisine. Those entering a
restaurant and ordering "preboggion" will be given a salad of a dozen wild
herbs, enriched with dark green cabbage. This is a typical winter dish and is
served as a tasty accompaniment to white meat dishes, traditional to the cuisine
in Liguria and not to be asked for outside the regional borders: the reply could
be a look of astonished surprise.
"Mesc-ciua"
The "mesc-ciua" represents the traditional soup of La Spezia, a popular dish
with simple origins, which in the past was eaten by the lowest social classes,
in particular in the typical country taverns, of which few examples exist
nowadays. Its ingredients are cereals and pulses mixed (from whence its name in
dialect) and boiled, but the reason behind its specialty is represented by the
fact that it is eaten in special unique areas and landscapes.
"Pissalandréa"
The name might look frightening but this is simply a pizza called "all’Andrea"
(belonging to Andrew) where the tomato is replaced by finely chopped onion,
herbs and capers. Its origins are said to go back to Admiral Andrea Doria, born
in Oneglia and famous for his adventures on the high seas in medieval times.
This dish is also called "Sardenaira" in the areas of Imperia and Sanremo up to
the regional border because it was enriched with a paste made of sardine heads.
It should come as no surprise that on the Côte d’Azure they call it "Pissalandière".
Other famous regional specialities
It would take many pages to list all of them and there are some very interesting
ones. To give a general picture and whet the curiosity of the reader, we would
like to mention the specialities that must not be missed and must definitely be
tasted in Liguria: chickpea zemin, tripe à la Genovese, pumpkin pie, cod
accomodato, salted cod, whiting, stuffed vegetables, croquettes or "friscieu",
condiggion, gobelleti, ciuppin, lean capon, bugie, buridda, biscuits from
Lagaccio and Lerici, and Sorrisi (smiles) from Chiavari.
Valbormida meat from Piedmont pedigree cattle
The meat of the Savona butchers has the following characteristics: it is tender,
it has a very low level of fat and a higher percentage of unsaturated fatty
acids than many other meats. These characteristics are due to the type of
natural diet (mainly hay and cereal grains) and to the fact that the animals are
out at pasture for at least 8-10 months a year. The cattle farms are of a
traditional kind, made up of small family run businesses. Their meat can be
found in outlets of the Savona cattle farmers co-operative.
Organic meat and cheese from the High Vara Valley
The Vara Valley is a valley in inland La Spezia which has recently become famous
because the farmers of the district ("Biological Valley") have banned the use of
all chemical products for the cultivation of the fields and animal farming. Two
interesting examples of the partnership between production, tradition and market
are the two co-operatives in Varese Ligure, which deal in excellent biological
meat that respects the environment and the typical local cheese produced
according to the most modern cheese making techniques, without the use of
additives or chemical ingredients: an important fact for ecology lovers and an
example of commercial intelligence for those who want to learn how to preserve
an agriculture economy in a territory which otherwise would be destined to
neglect. A considerable increase in sales has rewarded this initiative which was
only set up in 1997.
Salami from Sant'Olcese and Orero
The salami factories in Sant’Olcese and Orero, two towns in Valpolcevera, near
Genova are fighting a battle of documents to earn the title of creator of the
product. It’s a fact that when the people of Genova talk about salami, they mean
that of Sant’Olcese and Orero. A very typical product, produced with a clever
mixture of only beef which is carefully selected and represents the sector’s
real exclusivity.
Flavored with various ingredients and briefly matured, it has a wonderful flavor
and is very pleasant to the palate. It is best eaten in spring with fresh broad
beans, the so-called "bazane", which are characteristic of the first festivals
and feast days of winter’s end.
Still in green and pleasant Valpolcevera, we mustn’t forget wild boar salami
from Pontedecimo and the "mostardelle", made from less prized meat than that
used to make the salami, to be eaten with "polenta" and salami from Borzonasca,
just inside the Chiavari hinterland.
Milk from the inland area of Genova
The inland animal farming businesses have formed a consortium to sell their milk
from the Genova Apennines. This is a rich nourishing milk, with a particularly
strong taste because it comes from animals out at pasture for at least 8-10
months a year, fed on hay and cereal grains and traditionally reared in small
family run businesses. All this benefits the animals’ health, which as a result
are healthier and more resistant to illness. The milk is sold by the Masone
Co-operative Consortium in the Stura Valley. To market it, an initiative called
"The milk Valleys" has been set up, a successful example of rural tourism.
Cheese from Santo Stefano d'Aveto
This is definitely the most well-known cheese in Liguria and it comes from the
D’Aveto High Valley, in the highlands of Chiavari on the border with the
province of Piacenza. It is produced in the Comune of Rezzoaglio and, obviously,
Santo Stefano d’Aveto, where all the hamlets here and there over the mountains
and surrounded by woods and fields have their own little "dairy" where the
families have been making cheese for generations. It can be found in large
moulds, of 8 to 12 kg and has an intense, good, healthy, genuine flavor of the
mountains. Its strong yellow color and slight sponginess make it the main
character in the cheese world of the Apennines. Only fresh cow’s milk is used.
Its limited production must be appreciated and known in order to appreciate its
organoleptic characteristics, typical of mountain cheeses.
Application has been made to obtain a DOP (of protected origin) certificate and
for it to be reconverted to "organic".
Little cheeses (formaggette)
All over the inland area of the region there are cheeses and "tomini" (small
soft cheeses) produced by the animal farmers in the pastures and the farms. The
numerous festivals and country feast days are often host to these typical
products. The most famous are the Mendatica "toma" (soft cheese) and the little
cheeses from Savona.
"Prescinseua"
This cannot be found anywhere else and is a slightly acid, fresh curd, an
essential ingredient of the much more famous cheese focaccia. The milk from the
Apennines pastures is the base ingredient used to obtain this cheese, which is
widespread in the Genova area. The difficulties involved in preserving it and
its scarce production mean that it is inevitably consumed within its production
area. It can be found in the Stura Valley in Masone or in the Tigullio Gulf.
"Bruss" from the High Arroscia Valley
A sheep’s milk ricotta cheese, fermented and worked together with extra virgin
oil is the base for this absolutely original soft cheese, with quite a strong,
hot flavor and pale hazelnut color. It is best eaten with bruschetta (toasted
bread with toppings) or as a dressing in the typical dish "streppa e caccialà"
from Imperia.
Wine
A place of honor among the region’s products goes without doubt to its wine.
Each valley has its own production and this ranges from full-bodied reds to be
aged to delicate whites to accompany fish dishes. Liguria wine is not important
for its quantity, like other national productions, but it is finding its own
niche among the quality labels. The DOC policy has focused in fact on its worth,
rewarding the agricultural economy of entire inland territories where there
exists almost no real alternative to the cultivation of vines.
Starting in the west we find Rossese di Dolceacqua, produced in the Ventimiglia
valleys; an antique red, full-bodied wine, which is a good partner for red meat
and game. In the High Arroscia Valley, on the border with the Cuneo district,
there is Ormeasco, another red wine to accompany roast and charcoal grilled
meat, which is produced in the area of Pornassio and also owes its fame to the
beautiful landscape which is its birthplace. Coming down the Imperia coast, we
find many producers of a highly scented Vermentino, a fresh wine for fish and
sea food hors d’oeuvres. The areas mainly interested in its production are
Pontedassio, S.Lorenzo and Diano Castello, where a festival is held in its
honor. The Albenga valley is renowned for the production of Pigato, a fresh wine
which accompanies fish dishes very well. The most special bottles are to be
found in Salea, Ortovero and Ranzo, wine producing towns, famous for their
hospitable wine cellars. Another village in the Albenga area, Campochiesa, is
famous for another variety of Rossese. Lighter and paler in color, the
Campochiesa Rossese challenges its peers in accompanying fish recipes. In the
Finale area there are interesting producers of Vermentino and a particular white
wine, fresh and slightly sharp in taste which is about to be launched as a
spumante. This is called Lumassina, also called Buzzetto, which in local dialect
means "still unripe". It owes its name to the fact that the grapes which are
used to make it ripen later than others. In the Genova area we mustn’t forget
Coronata white wine and Bianchetta, while in the area of Chiavari we must
remember Ciliegiolo, a good red suitable for all lean dishes of the Liguria
cuisine, and Vermentino once again. Moving east we find the Levanto Valley where
much appreciated white and red wines have received the DOC certificate. Linked
to suggestive images of vineyards sloping steeply down to the sea, of pergolas
set down on handkerchief sized plots of land, of ordered rows of dry stoned
walls, Cinque Terre is a white wine which takes the essence of agriculture in
Liguria out into the whole world and which needs no further comment. One of the
best expressions of this wine is the Sciacchetrà variety, obtained from grapes
which have dried naturally on trellises. The result is an enhancement of the
flavors, aromas and colors of this land.
On the border with Tuscany we find, lastly, a series of reds, whites and
Vermentini from the Luni Hills which over recent years have literally taken over
the market, so much so that the producers are constantly looking for new
vineyards, due to the impossibility of meeting a continually increasing demand.
A curious fact: these wines were already mentioned by ancient scribes in Roman
times.
It quite often happens that, visiting the taverns and restaurants of inland
Liguria, the tourist is offered a glass of the so-called Nostralino. These are
grapes which differ from valley to valley from vines that have become rare and
of uncertain origin, but have kept intact the flavour of tradition. Together
with these we mustn’t forget a few prestigious table wines, among which
Vignamare from the Imperia district and Nicolò V from the Sarzana area.
Extra virgin DOP olive oil
Olive trees took over the hills and mountains which rise up from the Liguria sea
between the 3rd and 4th century A.D. thanks to the Benedictine monks, replacing
vines and chestnuts trees.
In 1997 olives also gained the first regional denomination of protected origin (DOP)
thanks to collaboration from the EU’s.
Liguria oil has always been a valuable product to be traded with other
populations, mainly towards Padania and France. The olive groves spread out over
all the coast characterizing the west of the region with their widespread and
homogeneous landscape. In all the towns on the Riviera it is possible to find
and buy oil from the producers and pressers.
For decades Imperia has been the most important centre dealing in oils of
Mediterranean origin and still today it is the headquarters of companies that
are very well-known on the market.
Taggiasca, Pignola, Lavagnina and Razzola are the most widespread varieties, but
many other local brand-names are to be found in the various olive growing areas.
The exception is Arnasco, a small village near Albenga where there is only one
variety which produces an extremely delicate oil.
Towards the west, the olive trees are favored by a drier, more temperate climate
and the result is a more delicate, fruity oil.
However, all the oil from Liguria, yellow-green in color, can be classified as
an oil with a sweet fruity taste and a mature fruity aroma. It is therefore a
"northern" oil, definitely not strong and intense like the Mediterranean oils
from the South and is a delicate accompaniment to any ingredient in
international cuisine, mixing and bringing together different aromas.
Olives from Taggia
In a region with ancient olive growing origins there had to be a unique tasty
product: olives in brine, obtained by salting these olives, rich in local aroma.
This variety, without doubt a member of the pressing olive family, is to be
found in the Imperia and Savona provinces. A small fruit, without much pulp, but
cleverly treated with processes handed down through the ages and which give this
fruit unexpected qualities. From the salting and pitting process a tasty sauce
is obtained, also called olive pâté.
Flowers
One of the most important areas of national production, the most important
market in Italy because of its history and the volume of the goods sold.
The regional production of extremely high quality, the fruit of decades of
experience and of professionally qualified labour, includes an incredible range
of hundreds of different species. Among the cut flowers the following stand out
particularly: carnations, roses, all kinds of bulbs: tulips, irises, buttercups,
daffodils, violets, anemones, all species of orchids and flowers in exotic
shapes from tropical countries.
The production of leafy houseplants in vases is much appreciated, such as ficus,
dieffenbachia, pouts, etc., and flowering plants such as daisies, cyclamens,
geraniums, primroses and poinsettia – for this last plant is a speciality of the
Albenga area.
Besides these, also worthy of note are flowering fronds such as mimosa and broom
in a wide variety of species and colours and ornamental green fronds; from those
typical of Mediterranean flora (mastic tree, myrtle, arbutus berry, holly and
heather) to those which have adapted to our regions (eucalyptus, viburnum,
grivillea, and palms in every shape and size).
Last but not least are potted cacti, the real feather in the cap of the
Bordighera and Ventimiglia zone.
Aromatic plants
Liguria is a region which has the possibility of producing everything that its
temperate dry warm climate allows. Many farmers in Liguria specialize in the
cultivation of aromatic plants. Over the years, the plain of Albenga and its
valleys have become stretches of perfumed shrubs, so much has the cultivation of
potted aromatic herbs grown, being both practical and commercial. From these
valleys million and million of perfumed vases are dispatched, filled with sage,
lavender, rosemary, thyme, marjoram and oregano with their intense Mediterranean
flavor, destined for the markets of the big cities and Northern Europe. Aromatic
herbs are, in effect, an essential ingredient of Liguria cooking, which tends to
be quite plain, but with the wise use of herbs has found its streak of
originality. A delicate mix of flavors where the meat can even take on a
secondary role. A few refined examples? Rabbit with thyme or juniper, escargots
with herbs and wild boar, fish dishes flavored with thyme.
Lavender oil from Pietrabruna
In a tiny village in the province of Imperia there are some artisans who have
managed to keep up the ancient tradition of distillation to obtain the precious
essence of lavender, an oil enhanced by the heady aromas of Liguria. The intense
purple fields can still be admired on the crests of the Pietrabruna hills, where
the olive trees end and the salty wind blows on the slopes and bends the
precious flower heads in the balmy July days. The Col di Nava, on the boundary
between Liguria, Piemonte and France is another well-known zone for the
production of this essence.
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